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FREE-BEES?

By Jerry Ballman

Would you like to add to the size of your apiary yet spend as little money as possible?  By catching a swarm, you can do exactly that.  It’s easy and inexpensive.  Just follow this quick step by step guide.

 

Step one: The Trap

Many containers can be used as a trap, including an empty hive.  Most of the bee supply catalogs sell swarm traps for about $15.  They’re look like a large flower pot  made of paper Mache. They don’t accept frames of foundation and fall apart after a couple months. 

 

 

Another alternative is a wax covered cardboard Nuc box which costs about $5.  Keep in mind that whatever trap you use, should be lightweight and sturdy.  If your box accepts wax foundation frames, you’ll save yourself a lot of time later.   The bees will also be attracted to fully drawn comb.  If done properly, the experience will be no different than picking up and installing a nucleus hive.  Of course without the $75+ price tag.

 

 

Step two:  The Bait

When you apply for your yearly Maryland apiary license (free) there should be a questionnaire asking if you would like the state to send free swarm lures.  They will send them to you free of charge in early March.  The lure will last about a year so if at first you don’t succeed… The alternative is to purchase the lure from a bee supply catalog.  It costs about $3.50 for a package of two.

 

Step three:  Location

Much like Real Estate, it’s all about location.  Look for places where honeybees are naturally found in abundance.  Fruit orchards, flowering bushes and trees.   Watch the bees this year so you know where to set your trap next spring.  Place the trap in or as close to the bush as possible. 

 

Step four: Timing

Spring and early summer are the best times to catch a swarm.  Keep in mind that while you can catch them later in the year, you will still need time to build the colony population before the cold weather sets in.  For the best success, always try to have the trap in place before the fruit trees blossom. 

 

Step five:  Setting The Trap

While some swarm collectors will tell you that traps must be 8 to 17 feet off the ground, my experience is to the contrary when placing traps in fruit trees, 5 to 6 feet works fine.  Look for a spot where the tree will support the trap, like a space between two large branches.  Tape the lid on the trap with duct tape or use wire, then attach it securely to the tree.  Screws aren’t necessary and will damage the tree. So, visualize what heavy winds might do to your trap and at the very least tape down the lid and use a bungee cord(s) to hold the box to the tree.

 

 

Step six:  Check the trap

Every few weeks, check the trap for bee activity.  BE CAREFUL!  It’s entirely possible to attract other species of bees.  A box filled with hornets could result in a very bad day for the collector.

 

Step seven: Collecting the swarm

Keep in mind the bees you are about to collect are unknown, you don’t know if they’re aggressive or tame.  Be prepared and even if the job looks easy, wear your suit, it could prevent serious injury until you get to know your new bees. 

Collect your swarm in the late evening.  This will allow you to trap as many of the field bees as possible. 

If you used a cardboard nuc box or a paper mache trap, you can cover the entrance with a piece of screen duct taped securely in place.  Again, think about the trip home, make sure the trap is fully closed and secure before placing it in your vehicle.  Some collectors place the trap in a large mesh bag just in case.  Having the trap pop open while you’re driving home could add excitement to your day you’d otherwise prefer to avoid. 

Make sure the opening isn’t fully closed; otherwise heat stress and suffocation are possible. 

 

 

Step Eight: Installing the bees

Here is where a little bit of preparation and a little bit of laziness pay off.  If you’re a little lazy and take your time collecting the swarm, the hive will be fully established and more stable when you move it to its new home. Remember when I mentioned back in step one how you’ll save yourself lots of time by using a trap which accepts frames of fully drawn foundation?  Here’s where it pays off. 

If you used foundation, the installation job is as simple as moving the frames of bees from the trap to the new hive body.  Pick up the frames and drop them into the new hive body. Very simple!  Use smoke and look for signs of disease.

 

Bees on frames in trap

 

Swarm after installation with a welcome to the neighborhood pollen patty

 

New hive with trap on top

 

Now enjoy the new bees!